Dior's landmark show in Mumbai signals India's growing luxury status

マリア・グラツィア・キウリによるディオール2023年秋コレクションが、ムンバイの巨大なインド門で発表されるまでのストーリーを、インドでご覧ください。チャナックヤのアトリエやチャナックヤ・スクール・オブ・クラフトの生徒たちによって実現された、さまざまなノウハウの詳細や、ショーのシナリオを形成した文化的影響、そしてメゾンとインドの長い関わりを明らかにする魅力的な映像が公開されました。(English) Head to India to uncover the story behind the unveiling of the Dior Fall 2023 collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri at the monumental Gateway of India in Mumbai. Our fascinating film details the wide variety of savoir-faire involved – much of it realized in the Chanakya ateliers and by the Chanakya School of Craft students – and explores the cultural influences that shaped the show scenography, as well as uncovering the House's long associations with the country.

Dior's landmark show in Mumbai signals India's growing luxury status.

Sujata Assomull, CNN. Published, Fri March 31, 2023

//Summary - Level-C2//

Dior's recent Pre-Fall 2023 collection show in Mumbai underlines India's growing influence in luxury fashion. Attended by celebrities and set against the backdrop of the historic Gateway of India, the event featured Indian elements such as Madras check and Benarasi brocade fabrics. Dior's choice of India for its regular show reflects the country's growing luxury consumer power, with disposable income levels expected to increase by more than 24% between 2019 and 2022. The show also celebrated Indian craftsmanship, with many pieces created by Mumbai-based atelier Chanakya International.

1)

Dior hosted a landmark catwalk show in Mumbai on Thursday, a nod to India's long-standing role as a producer of European high fashion and the growing power of its luxury consumers.

With the historic Gateway of India monument as its backdrop, the French label presented its Pre-Fall 2023 collection to a star-studded crowd that included Bollywood icons Rekha, Sonam Kapoor and Anushka Sharma, as well as model Cara Delevingne and actress Maisie Williams.

The location was a clear inspiration: The runway itself was decorated with marigolds and diya lamps, and the clothes featured Madras check and Benarasi brocade fabrics, mirror work, tie-dye detailing, Nehru collars and kurta tailoring.

2)

While a few major Western brands have staged one-off shows in India - Pierre Cardin in 1967, Yves Saint Laurent in 1989 and Valentino in 2004 - Dior is the first to include the country in one of its regular seasons.

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Luxury labels usually present their spring-summer and autumn-winter collections at one of the "big four" fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris. However, they often look further afield to showcase their pre-fall and cruise lines. And Dior's choice of Mumbai comes at a time when the luxury sector in India is increasingly optimistic.

According to Anul Sareen, senior research analyst at business intelligence firm Euromonitor, Indian shoppers have become a significant force in the fashion industry, with disposable income levels in the country set to rise by more than 24% between 2019 and 2022.

4)

"Luxury retailers (are) betting on the Indian market to sustain their growth, which is otherwise stagnating in Western markets and China," he said via email. "Many retailers are looking to expand their operations in the country."

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A tribute to Indian craftsmanship

Dior entered the Indian market in 2006 by opening a boutique in New Delhi. Since then, it has opened only one other store in the country, but the brand's relationship with India goes far beyond commerce.

Like many luxury houses, Dior often turns to Indian artisans for their exceptional craftsmanship. Many of the embroideries and textiles on Thursday's runway were made by Chanakya International, a Mumbai-based atelier with which the French label's creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, has worked closely for nearly three decades.

6)

On Wednesday, the atelier held a retrospective in Mumbai of 50 hand-embroidered pieces it has made for the label since Chiuri took the helm in 2016.

Dior also turned to the Chanakya School of Craft, a non-profit institute run by Chankaya International and staffed by communities of female textile workers, for various runway backdrops. This included a collection of 22 mammoth tapestries, created in collaboration with Indian artists Madhvi and Manu Parekh, which Dior commissioned for its Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show.

7)

"It is important to celebrate the creativity of the artisans and the culture of India while giving it a contemporary flavour," Chiuri said at a press conference ahead of Thursday's show. "This collection results from all our efforts to bring this language to life."

Fashion insiders, such as leading stylist and former Vogue India fashion director Anaita Shroff Adajania, saw the event as long overdue recognition for Indian ateliers. "I see this show as a thank you to India," she said.

8)

Ahead of the presentation, Mayank Kaul, a celebrated textile designer and curator, called it "a historic moment".

"This kind of recognition of the Indian makers behind the products of an international fashion house, I think, has never happened before," he added.

9)

A hidden role

Indian artisans' links to French high fashion date back to the 17th century, when tailors from Europe's royal courts sourced textiles from the subcontinent. Today, a significant part of the luxury industry's supply chain has been outsourced to India, says Rahul Mishra, who in 2020 became the first Indian designer to be invited to show a catwalk collection during the haute couture season in Paris.

"A garment spends more time in India during the manufacturing process than in Europe because of textile production and surface embellishment," he added.

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But fabrics produced in India are often assembled in Europe - and therefore labelled as "made in Europe".

According to Adajania, this leaves many Indian ateliers unable to take credit for their role.

11)

"I have many friends who run embroidery houses that work closely with luxury houses, but the brands make sure they don't talk about it," she says. "Industry insiders have always known about India's contribution, but consumers have not."

"For years, we've been bringing parts of Mumbai to Paris," she said. "The fact that Paris is coming to Mumbai means the world to all of us."

Dior's landmark Mumbai show signals India's growing luxury status

Sujata Assomull, CNNPublished 4:34 AM EDT, Fri March 31, 2023 

https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/dior-fashion-show-india-runway-artisans/index.html

Dior Fall 2023 Show

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfxdKZvpG6s

Unveiled after nightfall at the majestic Gateway of India in Mumbai, the Dior Fall 2023 collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri is a passionately conceived, personal and profoundly respectful tribute to the subcontinent's crafts and colours. Featuring soft, layered silhouettes, archival motifs, sari-inspired draping, and the exceptional handwork of the Chanakya ateliers, this illumination of Indian culture and textile prowess blends seamlessly with the House's perpetual devotion to savoir-faire excellence.

Live Music was Composed and conducted by Oliver Coates. Tablas & Multi Percussions by Anuradha Pal. With the musicians of the Symphony Orchestra of India. Indian instruments by Imran Khan, Chetan Joshi, Sangeet Mishra, and Tushar Raturi. Contains excerpts of 'Speaking In Tongues I and 'Om Namaha Shiva' by Sheila Chandra.

Dior's landmark Mumbai show signals India's growing luxury status 

https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/dior-fashion-show-india-runway-artisans/index.html

Dior's Landmark Mumbai Show Transcends Fashion 

https://www.surfacemag.com/articles/dior-pre-fall-mumbai-india/

Add info)

The making of Dior Fall 2023 in India

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwIVOc-_3go

Head to India to uncover the story behind the unveiling of the Dior Fall 2023 collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri at the monumental Gateway of India in Mumbai. Our fascinating film details the wide variety of savoir-faire involved – much of it realized in the Chanakya ateliers and by the Chanakya School of Craft students – and explores the cultural influences that shaped the show scenography, as well as uncovering the House's long associations with the country.

//Summary-Level-C2//

This text narrates the creation of a pre-fall collection inspired by India, a country the designer profoundly admires. The group is a tribute to the rich Indian heritage, particularly its embroidery and textile traditions. It was developed in collaboration with Karishma, a long-time friend and partner. The process involved learning from artisans, exploring various villages, and understanding their unique identities through craft. The collection also aimed to preserve these traditional skills by integrating them with the fashion world. The designer's journey included studying different embroidery techniques, colour palettes, and fabric types, all of which were incorporated into the collection. The narrative also highlights the historical connection between Dior and India, referencing previous collections inspired by the country.

The following text describes creating a fashion show in India inspired by the country's rich cultural heritage. The show, a collaboration between Maria Grazia Chiuri and Karishma, features a Toran, a traditional Indian decorative piece, and incorporates various Indian embroidery techniques. The show also respects local traditions, with benches and cushions made in India and flower beds created by local artisans. The flowers used will be recycled into natural dyes. The text also highlights the importance of colour in the collection, with each hue representing a different aspect of Indian culture.

A) Video: 26:39-

We need to do a run-through. Are the musicians happy to do a run-through? To try. - We're here for it. - Yeah, OK! I'm excited about this collaboration with Oliver, a great cellist, and his unique compositions.

B)

Here's the top of the show. I started performing when I was nine years old. My father told me, "You'll be taking up a challenging profession once you decide to do this. Because girls have never done this." I had to keep on doing a lot of reinventing. We have this system of the most essential vocal and the least necessary percussion in India.

C)

I thought that percussion should get that status, that additional voice, which is why I do a lot of rhythmic explorations. I started finding rhythm in music in everything around me and discovering that joy. See, you're in India; you have a traffic jam. All that can be interpreted rhythm-wise.

D)

The people who are crossing the road. People are dancing around. People are trying to navigate traffic in the middle of traffic jams. My idea has been to make music a universal language of communication. I present my concerts in different villages around India to create sensitivity around gender issues and to provide that let's grow together, provide girls' education and give them a choice to make their path.

E)

We're backstage in Mumbai. My name is Shikin Gomez. I'm half Indian, so this reminds me of what I would see people wear, you know, daily. And it's very comfortable, very colourful. Appliqué. No. Yeah! They cut out different materials and sew them on. Like, they make the shape on top of this.

F)

I like the brand's collaboration with Indians because people usually wear this pattern. Very Indian. - I love my outfit and how it's flowing. - Yeah. Where I'm from, we wear silk clothes, gowns, blouses, and veils. Oh, it's all silk? - It's all silk. - Beautiful. We don't wear a full sari; we wear half saris.

G)

So, we wear a gown, and you take it away and place one end here, and we wrap it around and drape it. Wow! Where do you come from? I come from a city called Hassan; it's in the southern part of India. My idea was to present a deeply personal interpretation of this way of draping and folding. So, the silhouette gets increasingly elongated while somehow remaining very sporty.

H)

Also, I like to mix a simple shirt, which adds femininity, with a kind of wrap skirt—this idea of a practical way of dressing. I think the first point of the celebration was colour for both of us. When you think about India, I believe joy comes through because of the country's colours, just all over.

I)

And it's also symbolic of specific traditions. So, we've chosen vivid, bright, and deep colours. Look how beautiful she is. Here's rani pink, which celebrates every woman. The blue celebrates the indigo root. There is a yellow which celebrates turmeric. The idea was to promote a collaboration between France and India.